Butt Post, Part 2
by Jack Rinella

This response, and others like it, were incentive enough to finish my new
toy: ìI like I like...now how is this going to be mobile? I have visions
of casters on the base so you can have your other slave wheel him around,
of course having just seen ëHannibalí over the weekend has given me new
reason to acquire a hand truck! I'm looking forward to hearing more about
this new toy!î

In case you missed last weekís column, I wrote about my idea for a butt
post, upon which one can seat his or her slave. I had constructed one that
attached to the foot of my bed but I wanted one that I could use in other
areas of the house as well, specifically in the dining room so that a
slave could decorate the room during dinner.

Over the years Iíve made a lot of my own equipment and I encourage others
to do so as well. Most of what you need you can learn to create yourself,
though some things are best bought from a professional. On the other hand
a few household tools, a couple of trips to Home Depot and Ace Hardware,
and bit of ingenuity can go a long way.

The basic parts to the post, which will be portable and not on coasters,
are a four-by-four hardwood post, a dildo, four steel angle irons, and two
pieces of 3/4 inch plywood, cut two foot square. You will also need a
piece of quarter inch dowel, 12 one inch lag screws and 12 1 1/4 inch
bolts with nuts and washers.

The post will cost about $70.00. I suggest you buy a pre-finished one as
it will look nicer and be safer. A cheap four-by-four would work but it is
going to be rough and will scratch your slave. Youíll find the plywood
comes in two-by-four sheets. The clerk will be glad to cut it in half for
you, making it easier to carry home.

Find the post and plywood first then go to the hardware section and find
four eight inch corner braces. Remember that a cardinal rule is to build
it strong so get good braces. I used 1/4 inch steel.

With the braces in your shopping cart (do I sound like Martha Stewart or
what?) find 12 one inch lag screws and 12 one and 1/4 inch bolts. You want
the bolts to go through one thickness of the plywood but not both. Make
sure they fit snugly into the braces. Find the dowel and youíre done
shopping, though a few extra eyebolts are always a welcome purchase.

On your way home stop at your favorite adult toy store and buy a dildo or
butt plug. I think a dildo works better, but a small plug would work as
well. Remember that the ass is rather sensitive and youíre going to want
your slave impaled for a while, so donít get too greedy on the size of
dildo. You may in fact need more than one, as different slavesí holes come
in different sizes.

Once home, I cut the top off my post so that it had a flat surface about
two inches in diameter. Then carefully cut the bottom so the post is
thirty inches high. Be sure your bottom cut is square so the post can
stand solidly. I cut my post the distance between the floor and Patrickís
crotch, and found that to be a bit short when I got a taller slave, so the
30 inch height is probably the better height. If it is too short, you can
extend the height as I did with the addition of a rubber ball which acts
as a filler between the dildo and the post.

Place the post in the center of one of the pieces of plywood (finished
side up) and put one brace on each side of the post. You may want to
rotate the post so that the ends of the braces point to the corners of the
plywood. Mark where you will place the screw holes, drill them slightly
smaller than the screws and screw the braces to the post.

Go slowly and double check that each piece fits correctly and tightly.
Once the braces are attached, mark the plywood for drilling and drill 1/4
inch holes for the bolts. Mark the second piece as well, but drill these
hole with a one and 1/4 inch bit. This way the bolts will be counter-sunk
into the bottom piece of plywood.

Youíll find that the finished product is a bit large, so by bolting the
post to the plywood, the base can be easily removed and the equipment
discreetly stored where the cleaning lady and your mother wonít see it.

Bolt the post to the top piece of plywood, align it on top of the second
piece and screw the two pieces together with small wood screws. Drill a
1/4 inch hole in the top of the post. Be careful that itís perpendicular
to the top of the post. Youíre almost done.

I used a double-headed dildo for the top of the post. Donít get one overly
large as you want even the tightest-ass slave to be able to enjoy this
toy. You will have to estimate the best length here, as body sizes vary.
The dildo I use is 6.5 inches long and sits on top of a three inch rubber
ball, since the post was too short.

Carefully cut the dildo to the proper length with a knife. Youíll find
that it has a wire in its center but that doesnít pose a problem as once
cut you can easily pull it apart. Discard the wire and carefully drill a
1/4 inch hole into the center of the dildo about three inches deep. Slide
the dowel into this hole as far as it will do and then measure an extra
two or three inches. Remove the dowel from the dildo, cut it as marked and
put it back into the dildo. Now put the other end of the dowel into the
top of the post and youíre ready to lube it up and use it.

You may want to stain the post and plywood and then paint it with
polyurethane. You can also put eye bolts into the post and/or base so that
you can fasten your slave in place. I like to use ankle restraints and a
blind fold, with the slaveís wrists cuffed behind his back. I also like to
go overboard with ropes and chains mostly for the visual effect as I keep
them rather loose to avoid constriction.

You can view a picture of the finished equipment at http://www.leatherviews.com/kinkyinfo/post.htm.

One last note about shopping. Keep in mind that the clerk doesnít know
what youíre going to do with this stuff. Let them think youíre building a
post for your cat to scratch. Get over your hang-ups about being caught in
a hardware store. No one can read your lusting mind.